Past Newsletters
Vol 4 No 4

In Pursuit of Chocolate

In the beginning, there was Caffarel Gianduia

Ah! Spring is in the air and what better way to celebrate its arrival than with this month's gourmet selection from In Pursuit of Chocolate! When you try this noble combination of originality and old world traditions, your taste buds are going to wake up and passionately applaud!

Caffarel, a company located in Turin, Italy, enjoys the undisputed reputation of creating Italy's finest chocolate, and has become world-renowned as the very first company to create the indulgence gourmands call, Gianduia (john-doo-ya). Located at the top of the Italian boot and bordered by France (to the west) and Switzerland (to the north), Turin is the capital of the Piedmont region. One can almost envision a Ferrari roaring along roads as they lead from the French and Swiss Alps, where the Dora Riperia serenades the vast plain of Po. It is here that the Italian Appenine mountain range begins at the foot of Po near Genes, and stretches down toward Sicily.

Way back in 1856, Gianduia was born out of necessity, since cocoa was rationed during the turbulent years that followed the Napoleonic wars. Craftsman from the Piedmont region where the world's best variety of hazelnuts are grown, circumvented the problem by blending precious, exotic cocoa with "Tonde Gentili delle Langhe' hazelnuts. Gianduia, an intense mélange of milk chocolate and hazelnuts, is now a classic form of European chocolate, made by only the finest chocolate producers.

Then And Now

Over 175 years ago, Pierre Paul Caffarel purchased a unique industrial styled machine specifically designed to make chocolates. Unique is not the right word ' this machine was revolutionary. Invented by Bozelli of Genoa, and looking somewhat like a huge, old-fashioned, wooden washing machine, it was nevertheless capable of producing 705 lbs. of chocolate a day - a truly amazing feat for that era!

By using 28% - 30% Piedmont Hazelnuts, Caffarel achieves a unique melting temperature and a velvety texture to complement the gianduia flavor.
Produced by extrusion (dropped onto plates), without the limitations imposed by moulds, Caffarel's Gianduia has a special consistency that is not too soft and not too hard, and a rich flavor that simply cannot be duplicated. Don't eat it all in one day!!

The exclusive recipes created by the artisans at Caffarel's factory are, to this day, one of the secrets that sets Caffarel apart. It's continued appeal is based on the important emphasis they place on combining the handpicked, select ingredients from all over the world and hand-made craftsmanship with the latest technologies. Within the Luserna San Giovanni facility there are three separate buildings that perform the mixing, roasting, refinement, and conching of the mouth watering treats that you are about to savor, or perhaps you have already sneaked a piece!

To learn more about how cocoa beans are magically turned into chocolate visit www.chocolatermonthclub.com and go to the 'Chocolate Bytes' link. While you're at it, check out 'Wine & Pairings'- combining chocolate with fine wines and premium beers is the latest craze. From there you can meander up to 'Other Gift Ideas' to find out about our wine and beer club memberships ' and also flowers, cheeses and cigars.

As if one needed another reason to sample these tasty morsels' Caffarel has been a member of Altagamma since 1996. This association designates those companies whose products promote the culture of quality and excellence that has long been intrinsic in the Italian way of life.

Old World Collectibles

At Caffarel presentation does not take a back seat to creativity. Each boat-shaped piece is individually wrapped, and presented in an oval tin, featuring an original Caffarel design from more than a hundred years ago - a scintillating combination of originality and tradition!

The company employs a design department of 13 individuals whose job it is to create exquisite packaging for each season. Upholding their original methods of operation, they do not rely upon the newest and most popular design trends, but instead research the Caffarel archives to revive the classical tin designs that have made Caffarel easily recognizable worldwide.

Intoxicating Pairings

For thousands of years, pairing the finest gourmet chocolates with International wines has been a common tradition, bringing the extraordinary pleasures of site, feel and taste to the likes of Napoleon, Socrates, Shakespeare, Catherine the Great, and Queen Isabella! For those beer fans out there, gourmet chocolates are also being paired with American microbrewed beers, introducing a whole new range of tasting experiences.

A full-bodied Zinfandel is another wonderful complement to chocolate, especially dark chocolate. Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon are created with more concentrated, ripe fruit.

Truffles are often filled with Summer and Winter Cabernets, Merlot, Champagne, Port and Chardonnay, so it is common sense that these wines will complement your chocolates.

Another exhilarating treat is strawberries dipped in sweet chocolate that are usually served with a white zinfandel. This wine usually has a subtle hint of strawberry taste, so the three flavors naturally dovetail together in perfect harmony.

Not one to take the back seat, beer is fast becoming an item to pair with chocolate. A very dark beer, such as Guinness Imperial Stout, will be a guaranteed champion if paired with your favorite chocolate dessert. Some more unique pairings can be found at the following site www.beermonthclub.com.

Interesting Chocolate Fact

It was the Piedmontese merchants known as "Cioccolatieri" who first introduced chocolate to the Swiss in the 1700s. Many years later in the 1860s, it was in Piedmont that chocolate Easter eggs were invented ' creating an updated version of the ancient tradition of giving painted eggs as a gift during the Spring and Easter festivities.

Ingenuity Rules

As mentioned earlier, Gianduia was created out of necessity in the first part of 19th century, when the Royal French Navy blockaded all European ports and caused a shortage of cocoa, spices, coffee, and other imports. As you can imagine that caused quite a stir. Close your eyes and think of that - a shortage of chocolate! Unacceptable! And Pierre Paul Caffarel and his son were not about to throw in the towel and close down their chocolate factory!

In the heart of the Piedmont a special kind of hazelnut is grown, know as "Tonda Gentile delle Langhe." Those treasured hazelnuts not only look different, they have a different proportion of oil to nutmeat, and their flavor is particularly rich as a result of the minerals in the soil. After much experimentation it was discovered that by refining hazelnuts into a very thin paste one could blend it perfectly with chocolate, thus creating the Gianduia. One would assume that the experimentation process must have been heavenly to say the least. Once tasted, Gianduia is an unforgettable sensation to forget ' in fact, it can be quite addictive. The combinations of flavor are so subtle that it is hopeless to try and decipher the plethora of ingredients ' but go ahead and challenge yourself!

Today, Gianduia has become quite useful in the kitchen. It is used to flavor a host of desserts, confections, pastries, and even ice cream. What was born, as an economical substitute for chocolate has now become a delicacy, and in our opinion, no chocolatiers have been able to match Caffarel's.

What's In A Name?

Originally this new concoction was given the name of "givù," a word derived from the traditional dialect spoken in the Piedmont. The name was soon replaced by a much easier to pronounce (ahem) "Gianduiotto." The godfather of its current name was Gianduja (Gian d'la duja), or more formally, Giovanni del Boccale, who was a local farmer and reported to be the designer of the Mask of Piedmont, which commemorates the battle for independence that was fought in the Piedmont back in 1799.

In 1865, during the annual Carnival celebrations, the much beloved and playful Gianduja rewarded the crowds with the wonderful new chocolates created by Caffarel, and authorized Caffarel to use his name to represent this divine new chocolate. Needless to say, at that time it was a great honor bestowed upon Pierre Paul Caffarel. Who would have guessed that now with the world-renowned accolades that Gianduia continues to enjoy, Pierre Paul Caffarel is able to return that honor to Giovanni del Boccale!

Rites of Spring

Long before its association with Easter, eggs were associated with many Spring Festivals and were also given as birthday presents. From the ancient Romans to the Egyptian era, eggs were cherished symbols of the universe. In pagan times, the egg represented the rebirth of the earth. Over the centuries, special powers have even been associated with an egg. Eggs were once buried under the foundations of buildings in order to ward off evil. French brides stepped upon an egg before crossing the threshold into their new homes, and young pregnant Roman women carried an egg to predict the sex of their unborn children - some traditions are easy to say good riddance to!

While Polish legends blended folklore to subscribe meaning, it was Christian beliefs that firmly attached the egg to the Easter celebration. One legend tells of the time Mary gave eggs to the soldiers at the cross. She entreated them to be less cruel and she wept. It is believed that the tears of Mary fell upon the eggs, spotting them with dots of brilliant color.

Eggs have represented mystery, medicine, magic, food, and omens - and currently they are the cornerstones of the Easter market throughout the world. It was believed that one shows reverence by decorating and dying eggs with a variety of colors. Its many dynamic faces show up dyed, painted, adorned with Austrian crystals, faux pearls and gems, turned into music boxes, embellished with cameos and lined with silk ' all in celebration of its special symbolism. In fact, you can find a shop in Salzburg that sells nothing but hand decorated eggs! And many are masterfully painted with pastoral scenes and portraits. But the guy who set the benchmark was, of course, Peter Carl Faberge, the famous Russian court jeweler.

In 1883 the Russian Czar, Alexander lll, commissioned Faberge to make a special Easter gift for his wife, the Czarina Marie. The first Faberge egg was actually an egg within an egg. It had an outside shell of platinum and white enamel that opened to reveal a smaller gold egg. The smaller egg, in turn, opened to display a golden chicken and a jeweled replica of the Imperial crown.

This first Faberge egg so delighted the Czarina, that the Czar promptly ordered Faberge to design additional eggs to be delivered every Easter season. In later years Nicholas II, Alexander's son, continued the custom. A grand total of fifty-seven eggs were made in all.

Although many of the omens and mystery associated with eggs have disappeared today, much of the symbolism remains, and artists continue in the old world tradition of decorating eggs. The customs of decorating and giving eggs for many occasions, including Easter, are still popular in Russia, but Americans are more likely to receive stuffed bunnies! Although we certainly can appreciate the premium chocolate eggs that many gourmet chocolatiers create!